DJI has release an I-2 FW fix for the TB50 & TB55 batteries, is there a FW update for the M-200 series?

[dougcjohn]

Top speed seems unchanged at around 55mph but the acceleration seems to have been reduced significantly.

I often shoot moving cars on race circuits and on my last job it was obvious that the acceleration had been sacrificed with the last update.

Wonder if that was by limited amps or if the paramater defaults were changed to a lower level. Can the various parameters in gains be increased or other variables that could result in slowing acceleration.

 

[Dobmatt]

Wonder if that was by limited amps or if the paramater defaults were changed to a lower level. Can the various parameters in gains be increased or other variables that could result in slowing acceleration.

It doesn't really matter, either way Inspire 2 will not burn tires on take-off anymore. I'm sure they will come up with another drone for filming drifters, dragsters or street chases ...

 

[MrTVR]

It doesn't really matter, either way Inspire 2 will not burn tires on take-off anymore. I'm sure they will come up with another drone for filming drifters, dragsters or street chases ...

Yes, and I’m sure that as soon as I buy one, DJI will start to cripple it, just as they did with the I1 and I2.

 

[dougcjohn]

It doesn't really matter, either way Inspire 2 will not burn tires on take-off anymore. I'm sure they will come up with another drone for filming drifters, dragsters or street chases ...

I'd agree if FW mods were altering the max Amps... but on an electrical matrix, I would lay less on this method than electronic controls. If it's by reducing stick gains or lowering max values, then it'd essentially be in a "Mid-Sport" Mode values. To my understanding going form Normal to Sport mode are parameter & exp gains modifications not amps.

I'm speaking from naiveness, I don't know the specifics that were addressed. But if they've accomplished this de-tuning in similar fashion... I would think by Re-tuning the parameters & Exp Gains might be able to restore the acceleration performance.

Since most don't dabble with parameters & gains, making the defaults more mild would address the majority of Users. Those that re-turned or pushed the parameters might obtain higher performance... or restored performance. Although, if it was accomplished in lowering the amp values within the ESC units, it would require raising ESC limits and I'm not sure that can be done through the Asst2 console. Similar to how the older E800 or E1200 Tuned Proplusion Motors had a ESC programmer that the Asst 2 recognized and provided for ESC tweaks.

 

[dougcjohn]

Yes, and I’m sure that as soon as I buy one, DJI will start to cripple it, just as they did with the I1 and I2.

Just a thought... You could always build your machine... a SpreadingWings S1000 or S900 reconfigured with different booms diameter for TPS E2000 motors (M600 Pro tuned Motors), tweaked ESC units, with A3 Pro & LB2 electronics. You'd loose the X5S or X7S, but could use X5Raw or Sony A7RIII. Big E2000 motors, huge 21" props on S1000 would provide some ample acceleration & speed. A modified S1000 with A3/LB2, E1200 TSP and 18" props is an impressive platform... but the E1200 TPS has been gone for a few years.

Or a Tarot X4 - X8 (Quad Arms, with Push / Pull Octal Motors), A3Pro/LB2 E800 TPS... smaller package than the S1000.

Curiosity, how does the M2P compare in acceleration & speed?

 

[Dobmatt]

Yes, and I’m sure that as soon as I buy one, DJI will start to cripple it, just as they did with the I1 and I2.

Maybe not, maybe they'll learn something from this failure and develop beefier power management system for speed junkies . Myself, I couldn't care less. I'm worrying much more about flight and hovering stability, redundancy, in app camera control etc.

 

[MrTVR]

Curiosity, how does the M2P compare in acceleration & speed?

Both the acceleration and speed of the MP2 was much lower before the most recent I2 update.

Whilst the top speed of the MP2 will still be significantly lower than the I2, I’m not sure the I2 will have much more acceleration than the MP2.

I’ll test it when I next get the opportunity ...

 

[slim.slamma]

I'm speaking from naiveness, I don't know the specifics that were addressed. But if they've accomplished this de-tuning in similar fashion... I would think by Re-tuning the parameters & Exp Gains might be able to restore the acceleration performance.

 

[dougcjohn]

Partial Section Pasted: On the batteries, my understanding is it's not a TB50 capacity issue with M210, but a FW version incompatibility between I2 & M210. Regardless of where the TB50 FW was updated: I2 or M210... they can be used in either platform but not mixed sets 1-I2 & 1-M210, must maintain 2- I2 or 2- M210. If paired and marked as pairs... not a problem.

I'll be testing the M210 and it's TB 50 & 55's for similar extended run exhaustion tests. I may be taking them down further % than suggested, but still within safe LiPoHV operating voltages and not damaging. My exhaustion tests provide a level of comfort to know how it will behave if ever caught further out from home base than anticipated and knowing she'll fly and not force land undesirely out range.

It's been colder than a Witche's T@@ in Brass Bra in my area... -5 to 10 F and 10-40mph Winds... so not even within suggested operating limits. I did take the M210 out for a exhaustion test to verify if RTH would force an early return or if unable to control percentage limits. Also wanted to test the cold limitation component noted in FW specs.

Bird was "house warm" and batteries: TB50 I2, TB50 M210, and TB55 had their battery warmer turned on prior to going out in the extreme cold. Quick Calibration performed and M210 lifted off. I took it 1200 feet out, 250' AGL and did quickly receive pop up warnings on extreme cold but no forced landing. Was attempting a battery exhaustion test when received an ipad (ipad pro 10.5) warning message being too cold to operate and a few seconds later the screen went black.

I was able to maintain flight with the Cendence Controller, but decided to land and retest.

Connected a Samsung Tab S4... very nice Android 10" tablet BTW... runs all the Android apps the CrystalSky refuses to install.

Back out onto cold. Was able to perform a TB50 M210 exhaustion test in a similar manner as the I2 test above. Performed with no forced RTH and I was able to fly until 5% exhausted.

Same performance and manual overrides as with the TB55 pair as TB50 pair but longer time.

The Tab S4 began giving popup about being too cold to USB Charge... something I've been attempting to stop, I prefer not charging the tablet from Cendence battery. This has been a Android issue for long time. Although Tab S4 at 70% charged, it too gave a cold warning eventually and shut off screen.

I had reached my cold finger limits so I decided not to test with CrystalSky... another day for testing exhaustion TB50 I2 on M210 and CS UB cold testing.

The positive news... under extreme cold, the M210 was able to take flight and was not prevented due to cold temps as suggested in FW specs... starting with a warm bird. I don't know yet reguardig starting with a cold bird since I went inside between tests. But it did remain airborne after becoming cold, the cold temps didn't force the bird down.

Side Note: When going inside (to warm up, swap batteries,etc) I disconnect the camera and leave it in the cold. On events end, I highly recommend if cold flying... before going into warm environment... place lens cap ON and wrap camera (on or off mount) in cold towel (box, etc) that has been outside so camera does not warm up quickly. If camera/lens warms up quickly it'll produce a moisture layer (fogged) inside camera that will eventually cause a clarity problem or mold. Bring camera and lenses up to warm temps very slowly. If your glasses fog up, your camera and lens are too. Same thing as with DSLR's... have to bring them up to warm temps slowly. On my Mavic, I place in case or wrap the camera nose before going into warm temps for same reasons.

 

[slim.slamma]

Side Note: When going inside, I disconnect the camera and leave it in the cold. I highly recommend if cold flying... before going into warm environment... place lens cap ON and wrap camera (on or off mount) in cold towel (box, etc) that has been outside so camera does not warm up quickly. If camera/lens warms up quickly it'll produce a moisture layer (fogged) inside camera that will eventually cause a clarity problem or mold. Bring camera and lenses up to warm temps very slowly. If your glasses fog up, your camera and lens are too. Same thing as with DSLR's... have to bring them up to warm temps slowly. On my Mavic, I place in case or wrap the camera nose before going into warm temps for same reasons.

Thanks for the tip
I’ve been using the case and the gel packs.
Just not gradually, once back inside I Disconnect and place in case.

 

[dougcjohn]

Thanks for the tip
I’ve been using the case and the gel packs.
Just not gradually, once back inside I View attachment 24136Disconnect and place in case.

Perfect... Lens Case works... if it’s outside and cold. The foam actually helps... foam is cold insulator that warms slowly too. I’ve used the case too when out in field... when I get home I wrap case in a towel in garage before taking it inside... let it warm up slow... just ignore it for 1-2 hours. The gel packs have limited absorption then shot... and they won’t address the possible moisture inside camera or lens.

One other tip I often forget myself... remove the memory card(s) while in the cold prior to wrap-up. Let them warm a bit too, nano electronics inside them... then you have access to your footage before cameras are warm & dry.